Do you miss surfing? I don’t miss surfing.
Ha! Spot the obvious lie.
What I miss more is the little things:
Seeing the surf reports and knowing life just got good…The tune-in with friends: who’s going where and when.
The drive down,: Mirror-like lakes, mountain views, The sea on the horizon…
Wind turbines lookin’ so lazy.
A fuel-up of hot coffee and a quick catch up… Ohh, those cakes look nice….
Then down to the ocean…. Park up,
Let the dog out to wag and scrounge…
Big Stevie has the burner on in the back of the car and making a brew..
He’s been there since the crack of dawn;
He’ll catch you up on what’s been going on…
Surfers come and go, smiling, stoked, frustrated.
Matt’s there, he’s been surfing and taking vids.. The Catch of the Day
The waves that got away…
Surf lessons on the beach, instructors waving hello: That was me, many moons ago.
Elderly couples giving bemused glances and friendly smiles as they stroll.
Children with ice-cream fingers drawing shapes in the sand..
And that first step into the ocean
And I pause, board in hand…
This place is new,
This place where I stand.
No. I don’t miss surfing at all…